Ever since our first trip to Antarctica in 2018, it has been a wild dream of ours to explore the Ross Sea of Antarctica. It would be our fifth trip to Antarctica, and turned out to be our most incredible visit to date.
You might wonder, what compelled us to add this part of Antarctica to our bucket list? There are many reasons, but the biggest one was the chance to visit the historic huts from the heroic age of Antarctic exploration.
Yes, I’m talking about huts that were constructed and used by none other than Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton, among other notable explorers. Then there is, of course, the emperor penguins.
Very few companies have visited the Ross Sea since the beginning of tourism to Antarctica. Even today, there is only one company that reliably offers trips each year. That company is Heritage Expeditions.
They’ve basically pioneered travel in this region, so they were at the top of our list when it came to planning this trip.
This write up is a detailed overview of our 28 day expedition to the Ross Sea.
We’ve included the many highlights along with detailed information about what it is like to take this expedition. It was one of the greatest adventures we’ve embarked on.
Overview of the Antarctica Ross Sea
The Ross Sea is located south of New Zealand between Antarctica’s Victoria Land and Marie Byrd Land. The Ross Ice Shelf borders it to the south.
The region was first explored in the 19th century by British naval officer James Clark Ross, after whom it is named. His expedition charted much of the coastline and identified key geographic features, including Ross Island and Mount Erebus, Antarctica’s southernmost active volcano.
The Ross Sea is one of the most ecologically significant areas in Antarctica. Large populations of Adélie and Emperor penguins, Weddell and leopard seals, and various whale species thrive in its cold waters. The sea is also known for its extensive krill populations, which support the Antarctic food web.
Due to its ecological importance, the Ross Sea was designated a marine protected area in 2016, making it the largest in the world at the time. Strict regulations limit commercial fishing and human activity to preserve its unique ecosystem.
Travel to the Antarctica Ross Sea is limited to a short window during the Antarctic summer, typically in January and February, when sea ice retreats enough to allow ship access. Most visitors reach the region via ice-strengthened vessels departing from New Zealand.
The Ross Sea remains one of the most remote and pristine regions on Earth, with harsh weather, unpredictable ice conditions, and strict environmental regulations shaping any visit to this part of Antarctica.
Ross Sea Antarctica Highlights
It is important to mention that no two trips to Antarctica’s Ross Sea are the same. This is a strongly dynamic part of the world, and things change fast. Even down to the hour. While one trip may encounter large amounts of ice and find certain landing spots inaccessible, the next may have no ice and be able to land everywhere.
It’s the nature of taking an expedition to this extreme part of the world. With all of that said, this is an incredible trip, and it’s worth embracing the nature of uncertainty to experience this part of the world.
Below is a list of the places we were able to visit on our trip. We traveled with Heritage Expeditions on the January departure of their In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton: Ross Sea Antarctica itinerary.
Sub-Antarctic Islands
New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands are a remote and ecologically significant group of islands located in the Southern Ocean, between New Zealand and Antarctica. Consisting of the Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Auckland, and Campbell Islands, along with Australia’s Macquarie Island, they are known for their rich biodiversity, harsh weather, and isolation.
These islands provide critical breeding grounds for rare seabirds, penguins, and marine mammals, including several species found nowhere else. Due to their fragile ecosystems, they are strictly protected, with access limited to permitted scientific research and guided expedition cruises.
This is truly one of the most special places on the planet, and Heritage Expeditions include stops at several of these islands on either end of their Ross Sea itinerary.
We had so much to say about these amazing islands that we wrote an entirely separate article sharing everything about our experience. If you’re interested in booking this Ross Sea itinerary, be sure to read the article here: Visiting the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia
Crossing the Antarctic Circle
Before you even reach Antarctica on this side of the world, you get to cross the Antarctic Circle. Yes, this entire visit to Antarctica is up to 13 degrees further south than almost every trip that happens on the Antarctic Penisula from Argentina.
As the ship moved southward towards 66°33′S, we gathered on the top deck to celebrate. Heritage Expeditions offered signs to commemorate the crossing, and we all took the Penguin Pledge, an oath to protect the fragile environment that lay ahead of us.
The crossing happens while you’re traveling south from the Subantarctic islands, and even after you cross it, you’re still a solid two days away from reaching Cape Adare!
Crossing the Antarctic Circle with Heritage Expeditions on their Ross Sea itinerary is a milestone that few travelers ever experience.
Cape Adare and the Borchgrevink Hut
Cape Adare is located on the northeastern tip of Victoria Land, Antarctica, marking the entrance to the Ross Sea. After spending several days at sea, it’s the first place you’ll lay eyes on the continent of Antarctica!
The Borchgrevink Hut was one of the highlights of our trip. There is a possibility to visit four historic huts on this trip, and we knew this one would be the most challenging to access.
It is not uncommon for expeditions to not make a landing here due to ice. I’ve seen a lot of photos of this hut from ship decks, but Heritage Expeditions made it happen, and we were beyond excited to make a landing and set foot inside!
Built in 1899 by Carsten Borchgrevink’s Southern Cross Expedition, it is the oldest surviving structure on the Antarctic continent. This prefabricated wooden hut was used to house the first expedition to overwinter in Antarctica, marking a significant milestone in polar exploration. It is also the first human structure to ever be built on the continent.
The team of ten men endured extreme conditions, relying on seal meat and stored provisions to survive the harsh winter. Today, the hut remains remarkably intact, protected by Antarctica’s cold, dry climate.
Today, the site is managed as a historic monument, and the Antarctic Heritage Trust is actively working on a restoration project to preserve the artifacts, buildings, and return the hut to its original state.
Cape Adare is also home to the world’s largest Adélie penguin colony, with hundreds of thousands of birds nesting on Ridley Beach and up high on the rocky slopes during the summer months. There were thousands of chicks giving chase to weary parents, making for spectacular entertainment and photography.
While landings are not always possible due to unpredictable conditions, just approaching Cape Adare by ship offers spectacular views of its rugged cliffs and vast penguin colonies. Also worth noting is that if you’re not able to land on your way south, Heritage Expeditions will make another attempt on the push north.
Gondwana Station in Terra Nova Bay
Gondwana Station is a German seasonal research facility located on the western shore of Terra Nova Bay in Antarctica’s Ross Sea region.
It is operated by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) and Alfred Wegener Institute, with the station being primarily used for geological and climate research during the Antarctic summer.
Unlike permanent research bases, Gondwana is only occupied when scientific teams are conducting fieldwork, meaning it remains unstaffed for much of the year. The station sits near the Italian Mario Zucchelli Station and is surrounded by dramatic volcanic landscapes with black sand and a wide array of volcanic stones strewn across the entire site.
We enjoyed another sunny day with no wind when we landed, which meant we were able to hike inland for some panoramic views. The highlight was our up-close encounters with nesting skuas and their adorable chicks.
Inexpressible Island
Inexpressible Island is in Terra Nova Bay just south of Gondwana Station, sitting along the Victoria Land coast. We had hopes of landing here because this island is best known as the site where six members of Robert Falcon Scott’s 1910-1913 Terra Nova Expedition were forced to spend a brutal winter after being stranded by sea ice.
Led by Lieutenant Victor Campbell, the men dug an ice cave for shelter and survived for months on limited rations, enduring extreme cold and scurvy before finally trekking overland to safety.
Today, the island remains a stark, windswept landscape of rock and ice, with little vegetation but a significant population of Adélie penguins. Visiting Inexpressible Island provides a powerful connection to the hardships faced by early Antarctic explorers.
The remains of their snow cave, along with a plaque commemorating their survival, serve as reminders of the island’s history. Strong winds and harsh conditions often make landings difficult, and this was exactly what we experienced. Unfortunately, we were unable to make a landing.
Drygalski Ice Tongue
The Drygalski Ice Tongue is a massive glacier extension protruding into the Ross Sea from the coast. It stretches over 70 kilometers into the ocean and is one of the largest ice tongues in the world.
It was formed by the slow movement of ice from the David Glacier, and it continuously grows. Named after German explorer Erich von Drygalski, the ice tongue acts as a natural barrier, influencing ocean currents and ice flow in the region.
After not being able to land at Inexpressible Island due to strong winds, we enjoyed a magical afternoon ship cruise along the entire perimeter and length of the Drygalski Ice Tongue. This allowed us to witness the beauty of the towering ice cliffs, deep crevasses, and striking blue hues of compressed glacial ice.
After dinner, the expedition team offered us a chance to zodiac cruise along the ice tongue. Just as we were loading the Zodiacs, a thick fog set in over the ice, and we couldn’t even see it! This made for some interesting conditions, but we still enjoyed it.
McMurdo Sound – Emperor Penguins & Type C Orcas
McMurdo Sound is the body of water between Ross Island and the Antarctic continent. It serves as the gateway to Antarctica for scientific research, with the United States’ McMurdo Station and New Zealand’s Scott Base situated on its shores.
The sound is historically significant as it was the landing site for early explorers. Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton used the region as a base for their expeditions, and three of their huts still stand today.
The area is known for its often thick sea ice, towering glaciers, and volcanic landscapes, with Mount Erebus, Antarctica’s most active volcano, dominating the skyline. During the summer months, the sea ice breaks up, allowing ships to navigate into the sound.
While this might sound like nothing exciting, let me tell you, exploring McMurdo Sound was one of the highlights of our trip!
Huts aside, the McMurdo Sound is overflowing with amazing wildlife encounters. The major Emperor penguin colonies within the sound are empty during the expedition season as the penguins have gone to sea. But this means you can see them on the ice!
They intermingle with the much smaller Adelie penguins, and seeing them together offers a much-needed perspective to truly appreciate the size of the Emperor penguins. They are, after all, the largest bird on the planet.
We also enjoyed plenty of sightings of Weddell and leopard seals, but another special highlight was seeing hundreds of Type C Orcas!
These orcas, also known as Ross Sea killer whales, are a distinct ecotype adapted to Antarctica’s icy waters. They are smaller than other orca types and are easily recognizable by their slanted eye patches and yellowish hue caused by diatoms on their skin.
They use the leads in the sea ice to navigate the frozen landscape in search of fish, particularly Antarctic toothfish. Which means we were able to see them daily from the ship and on Zodiac cruises.
Cape Evans and Scott’s Terra Nova Hut
Cape Evans is located on the western coast of Ross Island between Cape Royds and Hut Point. The cape offers a stark, windswept landscape of volcanic rock, with views of Mount Erebus towering in the background.
It is best known as the site of Robert Falcon Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition hut, built in 1911 as a base for his ill-fated journey to the South Pole.
The prefabricated wooden structure was designed to house Scott and his team during their attempt to reach the South Pole. The expedition ended in tragedy, with Scott and four companions perishing on their return journey, but the hut remained remarkably intact due to Antarctica’s cold, dry climate.
Inside, dim natural light filters through frosted windows, illuminating the cramped, cold interior filled with relics of early Antarctic exploration. Artifacts from the expedition, including preserved food tins, clothing, scientific equipment, and handwritten notes, remain almost exactly as they were left over a century ago.
The hut later served as a shelter for members of Ernest Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party, who became stranded in 1915 while laying supply depots for Shackleton’s failed trans-Antarctic crossing. Today, the hut is protected and has undergone complete preservation by the Antarctic Heritage Trust.
It was mind-blowing to set foot inside, and I was overcome with emotion during our visit. We have spent so much time learning about the heroic age explorers and their exploits in Antarctica that being in the hut was like finally being connected to them. It truly felt as if they had just stepped out for the day and would be back for dinner.
Cape Royds and Shackleton’s Nimrod Hut
Cape Royds is located on the western coast of Ross Island, just north of Cape Evans. It is best known as the site of Ernest Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition hut.
Built in 1908 as the base for Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition, the hut played a crucial role in early Antarctic exploration. It was from here that Shackleton and his team attempted to reach the South Pole, ultimately turning back just 97 miles from their goal.
The hut remains in remarkable condition, containing supplies, equipment, and personal items left behind by the expedition over a century ago. The cold, dry Antarctic climate has preserved these artifacts, making it a significant historical site.
The hut is now protected and has been conserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust to ensure that it remains a window into the past.
Being able to stand physically in this hut was surreal. Ever since our first expedition to Antarctica in 2018, we’ve both been fascinated by polar exploration and especially Shackleton. To visit his Nimrod hut was another emotional experience that is, to be honest, hard to put into words. So I won’t try, but it involved goosebumps.
The entire site sits in the shadow of Mount Erebus and is also home to the southernmost Adélie penguin colony in the world, where thousands of penguins nest among the black volcanic rock during the summer months. I’ll give it to Shackleton; it’s the most beautiful site of all the historic huts.
Ross Ice Shelf
The Ross Ice Shelf is the largest floating ice shelf in Antarctica, covering an area roughly the size of France and extending from the coast of Antarctica into the Ross Sea.
It stretches from Ross Island in the west to the Edward VII Peninsula in the east, acting as a natural barrier between the open ocean and the glaciers feeding into it from the Antarctic interior.
The towering ice cliffs at its edge can rise over 30 meters above the water, with much more ice extending below the surface. The shelf plays a crucial role in stabilizing the Antarctic ice sheet and influences ocean currents and climate patterns.
The day we visited the Ross Ice Shelf, we were welcomed by a classic Antarctica day. Strong winds, snow, and fog disrupted our view from the ship. But every so often, a small break in the weather would happen, and we could see the massive presence of the ice shelf. Observing the sheer scale and isolation of the ice shelf was a humbling experience.
Cape Bird
Cape Bird is located on the northern tip of Ross Island, and it is best known for its large Adélie penguin colony. This colony is one of the most significant in the region, with tens of thousands of birds nesting along the rocky shoreline during the summer breeding season.
The cape is also home to a small, unmanned research station operated by New Zealand, which supports scientific studies on the local ecosystem and climate.
Unlike other parts of Ross Island, Cape Bird has ice-free ground during the summer, making it an important breeding site for seabirds, including skuas and petrels.
Visiting Cape Bird was an immersive wildlife experience! We witnessed thousands of Adélie penguins waddling along well-worn paths between their nests, feeding their chicks, and diving into the frigid waters to hunt for krill and fish.
McMurdo Station
McMurdo Station is the largest research facility in Antarctica, located on the southern tip of Ross Island along the shores of McMurdo Sound. Operated by the United States, it serves as the main logistical hub for scientific research on the continent, supporting a wide range of studies from climate and glaciology to marine biology and astrophysics.
Established in 1956, the station consists of numerous buildings, laboratories, and living quarters connected by a network of roads and pathways. During the Antarctic summer, it can accommodate over 1,000 personnel, including scientists, support staff, and military logistics teams.
The station is also home to a runway on the sea ice, which serves as a critical link for flights transporting supplies and personnel to and from Antarctica. Despite its industrial appearance, McMurdo is vital to Antarctic research and remains one of the most remote yet well-equipped scientific bases in the world.
From our ship and during our visit to Discovery Hut, we had clear views of McMurdo Station, though access was restricted. While we couldn’t step inside, observing McMurdo from afar provided a sense of the scale and complexity of Antarctic operations.
Scott’s Discovery Hut
Scott’s Discovery Hut is located on Hut Point, Ross Island, and it stands in stark contrast to the nearby McMurdo Station. Built in 1902 during Robert Falcon Scott’s Discovery Expedition, it was intended as a shelter and storage facility rather than a living space, as its design made it difficult to heat.
The hut played a crucial role in early Antarctic exploration, later being used by Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition (1910-1913) and Ernest Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition (1907-1909) as a supply depot and emergency shelter.
Due to Antarctica’s dry, cold conditions, many original artifacts remain inside, including crates of provisions, equipment, and remnants of clothing, offering an eerie glimpse into the hardships faced by early explorers. The hut has been preserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, including the modern structure that now covers the top of the building to protect it.
We happened to be traveling on the same trip as the Antarctic Heritage Trust’s Inspiring Explorers, who were on a mission to return a conserved artifact to the Discovery Hut. The artifact was a weathered copy of The Count of Monte Cristo that had been taken before the hut became protected.
The owners of the book returned it to the Antarctic Heritage Trust, who set to work conserving the book with the intent of returning it to the hut. With our successful landing, the book was returned during our visit!
Franklin Island
Franklin Island is a remote, uninhabited volcanic island in the Ross Sea, located about 130 kilometers east of the Antarctic mainland. Discovered by James Clark Ross in 1841 and named after Arctic explorer John Franklin, the island is known for its dramatic cliffs, rugged terrain, and large Adélie penguin colony.
The steep basalt cliffs rise sharply from the sea, shaped by ancient volcanic activity, while glaciers and ice fields cover much of the landscape. With no permanent human presence, Franklin Island remains a pristine Antarctic environment. The island’s isolation and exposure to strong winds and shifting sea ice make landings challenging, but we got lucky!
We were able to walk carefully among the colonies, observing the penguins as they tended to their chicks or made their way between the water and their nests. At this site, the penguins have built up a massive expanse of nesting mounds, leaving the landscape to look like another planet.
This was easily the most unique Adelie penguin colony that we visited on this trip.
Possession Islands
The Possession Islands are a small group of rocky, ice-covered islands in the Ross Sea. They were discovered by James Clark Ross in 1841 and named to mark Britain’s claimed sovereignty over the region. The islands are remote and largely inaccessible due to surrounding sea ice and harsh weather conditions, as we learned.
They are home to significant Adélie penguin colonies, along with skuas and other seabirds that nest on the exposed rock during the Antarctic summer. Though we were unable to Zodiac cruise or land due to heavy ice, viewing the Possession Islands from the ship still provided a glimpse of their rugged volcanic peaks rising from the frozen sea.
Balleny Islands
The Balleny Islands are a remote chain of volcanic islands in the Southern Ocean, located around 240 kilometers north of the Antarctic mainland. They were discovered in 1839 by British sealer John Balleny.
The archipelago consists of three main islands Young, Buckle, and Sturge. They rise dramatically from the ocean, with sheer cliffs, massive glaciers, and active geothermal features.
These islands are rarely visited due to their extreme weather, unpredictable seas, and heavy pack ice. Less than 50 people have ever physically set foot on any of them. On our journey south, they were so packed with ice that we had to sail out of our way and around them before cutting back to Cape Adare.
As luck would have it, when we turned north, our expedition team learned that the ice had blown out around the islands. The ship set course for the Balleny Islands, and when we arrived, we had decent enough weather to do a Zodiac cruise!
During our outing, we were able to get a closer look at the towering ice-covered peaks and rugged shorelines, where icebergs and sea ice create a surreal, ever-changing landscape. Wildlife was abundant, with sightings of seabirds, Adelie penguins, and chinstrap penguins!
The raw, untouched nature of the Balleny Islands made the experience feel truly wild and remote, offering us a rare glimpse into one of the least-explored regions of Antarctica.
How to Visit the Ross Sea of Antarctica
Expedition Cruising with Heritage Expeditions
Visiting the Ross Sea with Heritage Expeditions is a journey into one of the most remote and historically significant regions of Antarctica.
As a family-run expedition company specializing in high-latitude travel, Heritage Expeditions has a long history of leading voyages to the Ross Sea, following in the footsteps of legendary explorers like James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, and Ernest Shackleton.
Their deep experience in the region allows for expertly guided landings at historic sites, wildlife colonies, and rarely visited research stations. Traveling with them offers a rare opportunity to witness the raw beauty of the Ross Sea and Sub-Antarctic Islands.
Their focus on conservation, small group sizes, and knowledgeable expedition leaders enhance the experience, providing meaningful insights into the history, wildlife, and scientific importance of Antarctica’s least-visited sea.
We traveled with Heritage Expeditions on the January departure of their In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton: Ross Sea Antarctica itinerary.
The Heritage Adventurer
The Heritage Adventurer is the flagship vessel of Heritage Expeditions. It is a purpose-built expedition ship designed for polar exploration. Originally constructed as an ice-strengthened research vessel, it has been refurbished to offer a balance of comfort and capability, allowing travelers to reach the most remote parts of the Ross Sea safely.
The ship features spacious cabins, observation decks, a lecture theater, and Zodiac landing platforms for efficient shore excursions. Its reinforced hull is well-equipped to navigate through sea ice, essential for exploring Antarctica.
Onboard, expert guides, naturalists, and historians provide in-depth presentations, enriching the journey with their knowledge of the region’s ecology, history, and exploration legacy.
With a strong focus on expedition-style travel, the Heritage Adventurer offers a truly immersive and adventurous way to experience the Ross Sea while maintaining a high standard of safety and environmental responsibility.
Our Honest Thoughts on Heritage Expeditions
I’ll just cut to the chase. Traveling with Heritage Expeditions to the Ross Sea was incredible. As a company, they completely embrace the nature of adventure. They work around the weather, even if it means you’re Zodiac cruising to see penguins after dinner or visiting a hut at 2 am because the ice cleared.
This is a rarity in today’s expedition landscape. They hand-pick the best expedition staff in the polar industry and pair them with an incredible captain. Seriously, Captain Jacek is the best captain we’ve ever sailed with, period. That alone is a reason to take this trip with Heritage Expeditions.
There’s a reason they are successful as a company. They are passionate and confident, which is a powerful combination. If an opportunity to travel with them again ever comes up, we wouldn’t even hesitate.
Our trip to the Antarctica Ross Sea was in partnership with Heritage Expeditions and Adventure Life. However, all opinions, stories, advice, and insane love of penguins are 100% ours, as always.
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