It’s no secret that we love a good adventure that involves viewing wildlife. We’ve taken on some of the best wildlife adventures on the planet! It will come as no surprise to you that seeing polar bears in Churchill has long been at the top of our list.
Churchill is a small town located in the far reaches of northern Manitoba, Canada. It is known as the polar bear capital of the world due to a large population of polar bears that call the shores of Western Hudson Bay their home.
In the late Fall, this population makes their way to the shores of Hudson Bay with high anticipation as they wait for the water to ice up. This makes it the best place in the world for polar bear viewing.
How to See Polar Bears in Churchill
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We were invited by Natural Habitat Adventures to experience Canada’s Premier Polar Bear Adventure. They advertise the trip as the world’s most coveted small-group polar bear expedition, and now that we’ve been, we understand why.
The trip spans over six days, which might seem like a short amount of time, but the experience is rich. It’s a full immersion that goes beyond just seeing polar bears in Churchill. You get to meet locals and learn about the town, too.
One of the things that stood out to us on this trip was Nat Hab’s attention to detail. These trips are meticulously planned so that you have the time of your life viewing polar bears.
Each group is a maximum of 16 people plus one expert naturalist guide. Each group gets its own Polar Rover (owned and operated by Great White Bear Tours), a specially designed vehicle, reminiscent of a tank, that moves with ease across the tundra.
They are designed to hold 30 people, but with a small group, everyone has a full row and their own window. They are the only company in Churchill that does this.
Over the six-day trip, we spent four days in Churchill and within those four days, we spent 20 hours with the polar bears!
Important Facts About Churchill Polar Bear Viewing
The biggest thing I want to educate about is that all of the polar bear tours in Churchill are done neutrally. This means there is no incentive provided to the bears. This is important to know, as some people assume that the bears are enticed or fed to get good photos or provide good viewings.
This is not the case. In fact, it is illegal to entice the polar bears in any way, feeding included. What’s worth mentioning, is that the polar bears in Churchill, due to their unique location and patterns, are the most studied polar bear population on the planet.
As a result, they are no strangers to polar rovers or vehicles in their habitat. In a sense, these bears have some habituation within the Churchill Wildlife Management Area. I’m sure you’ve seen the photos of polar bears standing up on the side of the polar rovers. They do this purely out of curiosity.
During the polar bear season, the bears are edging closer to the shores of Hudson Bay while they wait for the ice to come. This will allow them to go to sea and hunt. They are incredibly bored and at a late stage in their fasting cycle.
It’s important to understand this if you want to understand why this amazing natural phenomenon happens. This is what provides us with an opportunity to see them in such close proximity.
The polar bear is the largest land carnivore on the planet. You don’t want to be in an unsafe situation around them.
Read on for a full overview of our experience of seeing polar bears in Churchill with Natural Habitat Adventures.
Day 1 – Arrival in Winnipeg
The first day of our tour was arrival day in Winnipeg and checking into our included tour hotel, The Fort Garry Hotel. There aren’t any planned activities on arrival day. If you arrive early in the day or the night before, you’ll have some time to tour Winnipeg.
We flew into Winnipeg 5 days before our Churchill tour, so we got to know the city well. There is so much to see and do in Winnipeg, if you have time to give it a few days, we highly recommend that you do!
If you want to read a full overview, check out our Epic Things to Do in Winnipeg, Manitoba Guide.
The morning our tour started we went to the Assiniboine Park Zoo to check out the Journey to Churchill experience. This was a great introduction to our upcoming adventure.
In the afternoon, we returned to the hotel where we were able to meet some of the Nat Hab staff and get fitted for our complimentary gear rentals. Every guest is given a heavy parka and boots to wear in Churchill, so you don’t have to buy new or bring gear from home.
In the evening, we joined our guide and the rest of our group for a private orientation dinner at the hotel. We enjoyed a three-course meal while being fully briefed for our upcoming adventure.
Day 2 – Fly to Churchill
Our day started with breakfast at The Fort Garry Hotel before heading to the airport for our flight up to Churchill. Nat Hab charters flights with Calm Air so their guests don’t have to spend unnecessary time at the airport going through security or checking in.
We were transferred directly to the Winnipeg airport and then driven right onto the tarmac, where we disembarked the bus directly onto our airplane!
The flight up to Churchill takes two and a half hours and for us, was uneventful. We had a snowstorm blow into Winnipeg the night before but as we made our way north, the white blanket disappeared from the ground. Churchill had not received its first snow yet, nor would it during our visit.
It became very obvious to everyone on the flight that the further north we flew, the more desolate and remote the landscape was becoming. We were headed to a special place, and we couldn’t wait to land.
Arriving in the Polar Bear Capital of the World
I could barely contain my excitement as we landed, and the Churchill Airport came into view. The airport consists of a small, one-room building. The signs on the wall welcomed us to polar bear country and listed out the various rules to follow if you want to stay safe. Of course, I read them all!
Leaving the airport, we made our way directly to the Tundra Inn Café for lunch before checking in at the Polar Inn. This would be our sleeping hub for the next three nights. Hotels, which I would akin more to boutique inns or lodges, are small and cozy in Churchill. That said, they have everything you need to enjoy your visit.
Not wasting a moment, we quickly dropped our bags and headed right back out to the van. We were off to meet a local legend and truly begin our adventures in Churchill.
Wapusk Adventures Sled Dog Experience
Do you ever meet someone and just know that they are interesting? I didn’t know anything about Dave Daley before I arrived in Churchill, but within minutes of meeting him, I couldn’t wait to learn everything!
A natural storyteller and a proud Metis, Dave is the owner of the largest sled dog kennel and operation in Manitoba. The purpose of our visit was to learn more about the importance of sled dogs to Northern Canada and have our own experience with them.
I have to say, of all the sled dog kennels we’ve visited around the world, Dave’s was the cleanest and his dogs were the nicest. He emphasized how his care mirrors that of a human, and that he thinks of his dogs as family. As a result, he has dogs that would do anything for him.
He doesn’t force any of them to work and ensures they all find their correct place amongst the team. When they become tired, injured, or are finished pulling, he retires them with dignity.
As someone who has spent many years in the sport horse industry, I felt connected to Dave as he truly understands what it means to work with animals.
Taking on the IDIDAMILE in Churchill
We were briefed, with many stories, before having the chance to hop in a sled to experience firsthand the thrill of the sport. Of course, there was no snow in Churchill during our visit so instead, our dog team pulled a summer training cart on wheels.
The highlight of any trip to the dog yard is the rush of completing Dave’s IDIDAMILE that runs throughout his property through a myriad of vegetation, including lush boreal forest.
After this experience, it became clear to us that our visit to Churchill was going to be about so much more than seeing polar bears.
Night on the Tundra
By the time we left Wapusk Adventures, it was hard to believe we had woken up in Winnipeg on the same day. We had only been in Churchill for a few hours, and it already seemed like days had gone by.
But the day wasn’t over, we would be heading out on the tundra for the first time to enjoy dinner and watch the sunset. It would also be our first ride on the custom-built polar rovers that Nat Hab uses for their trips in partnership with Great White Bear Adventures.
I don’t know about you, but I tend to thrive in isolated places. There is just something about being in a hostile environment that awakens my soul. Bumping out into the Churchill Wildlife Management Area on the shores of Hudson Bay was no exception.
We were now, truly, in the realm of the polar bear.
Our driver, Val, is a veteran Polar Rover driver and one of the most experienced they have on staff. Not to mention one of the only ladies! From the moment we set foot on her rover, we could sense her passion for showing people this special place.
Our goal for the night was not to see polar bears. Of course, you always hope that you do, but tonight was about getting a feel for the tundra. For taking in the vastness while standing out on the back deck to feel the cold and listen to the wind dance around the silence that surrounded us.
Enjoying a Churchillian Style Party
When the sun finally set, we were surrounded by darkness, and it was at this moment that Val and Katrina invited us to enjoy a traditional Churchillian party onboard the polar rover. Our group enjoyed charcuterie, a three-course meal, and wine while hoping the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) would show up.
The truth is, they didn’t. But you know what? It didn’t matter. The evening was special without them.
Day 3 – Full Day Polar Bear Safari
Anticipation was in the air this morning as our small group gathered for breakfast at the Polar Inn. Today would be our first full day on the tundra and with any luck, our first polar bear sightings in Churchill.
We would spend a total of 8 hours in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area (CWMA) today and our goal would be to see as many polar bears as possible. After not seeing one last night, I will admit that I was shocked when we came across our first bear within the first hour.
First Polar Bear Sighting
It was far off in the distance, but that didn’t diminish the excitement that seemed to burst from the windows of the polar rover when we stopped to set up the scope.
We spent some time watching this bear with the hopes that it would become curious and come closer to the rover. But it never did, so we moved on. Visitors to the CWMA are required to stay on the designated roads, so it’s not an option to leave the roads for a closer look.
Second Polar Bear Sighting
Moving deeper into the CWMA was rewarding, and we came across another much closer bear. If we thought the initial excitement was high, this time it was electric. It was happening! We were seeing a polar bear up close!
This bear was unfazed by our presence, not even lifting its head as it strolled along a frozen tundra pond over to the road we were parked on.
It would occasionally offer us a glance, but it was mainly focused on the small pools of frozen water along the road. This provided us with entertainment as it scratched and dug at the ice before leaping up and down.
Third Polar Bear Sighting
Bear three of the day was resting in the tundra shrub bushes, opening his eyes only to peek at us and then closing them again. As his body was partially hidden, it was hard to tell his size. That was until he got up to check out the polar rover!
You see, each polar rover is decked out with six-foot-tall tires. So, when this guy ambled over, it was easy to see he was around four feet tall, at the shoulder while on all fours. That is absolutely massive. When he stood up, he easily reached seven feet tall. WOW.
He was casually interested in the rovers, making his rounds of the vehicle but then headed right back to his shrub bush. It was then that we were all invited to witness a private yoga session. Namaste!
This giant bear proceeded to sit down like a dog before reaching forward and stretching all four legs. When he finished, he started to lay back in a pretzel-like pose while stretching his toes.
As he laid back more, he was eventually on his back and proceeded to full stretch out. Reaching overhead, he made a huge grunt and then placed his front paws back on his stomach. He then began scratching. It was hilarious to watch. All with his eyes closed.
He lay like this, scratching, for some time before rolling back up into a pretzel position and then to sitting. He looked over at us and then stretched out with his front paws into a child pose. It was back to nap time for this bear.
Fourth Polar Bear Sighting
Moving on, the rover buzzed about how that encounter would be hard to beat, and even though we came across another bear on our way out, it was the best sighting of the day.
The last bear, though, gave us some incredible photo opportunities. He never came too close, but he spent his time walking across the most beautiful frozen tundra pond. Pairing that ice with the soft yellow light that was happening around us made for a special moment.
Enjoying Other Churchill Wildlife
While the polar bears steal the show, for obvious reasons, we couldn’t help but appreciate some of the other wildlife that we saw too.
The most notable sightings included an Arctic fox, a cross fox, an Arctic hare, many snow buntings, and plenty of ptarmigans in their winter plumage. We were hoping to see wolves, but didn’t get lucky on this trip.
Free Time in Churchill
After a full eight hours on the tundra, we made our way back to the town of Churchill for the evening. With the timing of our day, we were able to enjoy some free time in town before sunset.
It’s important to highlight that safety in Churchill is a priority. Polar bears can and do wander into town.
As such, there are strict rules in place by both the town and Nat Hab for all visitors. You’re not allowed to roam, but during daylight hours it is possible to walk Main Street and visit some of the shops. Any exploration further afield must be done by vehicle.
While the town is very small, Main Street has a handful of gift shops that are worth checking out for unique gifts. The Arctic Trading Company, in particular, offers both shopping and a time capsule of history from the town.
Meet A Local – Rhonda
Before dinner, we had the opportunity to meet a local for casual storytelling about life in Churchill. Rhonda has lived in Churchill for 26 years and graciously gave us an hour of her time to share stories about what life is like in the remote reaches of Canada.
She also shared some stories about what it’s like to truly live amongst polar bears. Her stories were engaging, drawing us in and sparking an intense session of Q&A that she happily entertained.
Natural Habitat Adventures prides itself on its trips being a full immersion into Churchill, and they deliver this with experiences like this one. I’d share some of the stories with you, but honestly, those are Rhonda’s to tell, and you’ll have to make the journey to Churchill yourself to hear them.
Day 4 – Full Day Polar Bear Safari
The energy in our group remained high as we took another breakfast at the Polar Inn and readied our gear for another day on the tundra with the polar bears in Churchill. We had another eight-hour day on the rover ahead of us.
Today we headed to a different area of the Churchill Wildlife Management Area with the hopes of spotting different bears from yesterday. It was a longer initial drive, but once we were close to Hudson Bay, the sightings were just as incredible as the day before.
Fifth & Sixth Polar Bear Sighting
For our first sighting of the day, we were treated to not one but two young adult males. Initially, it was just one bear, and we observed him as he wandered along a frozen tundra pond.
He was very curious about the rovers, so he came over for a closer look, then circled ours and another rover that was parked on the road. He was very relaxed and after checking us out proceeded to walk back over the ice towards a patch of tundra shrub bushes. It was then that we spotted another bear in the distance.
Turns out, a second bear was bedded down on the edge of the brush. Neither bear saw the other. The anticipation on the rover was high, as we all made our way onto the viewing deck to see how this encounter might unfold.
It’s every visitor to Churchill’s dream to see a pair of bears play sparring. If there was ever a moment, this would be it! Initially, they didn’t see each other. But as soon as the sleeping bear near the bushes caught wind of the approaching bear, he was up and rapidly approached the incoming bear.
The silence at that moment was deafening. I felt like I was part of the tundra as the wind whipped across my face. When the bears met, I held my breath and hoped for some action.
But it never came.
They approached each other with caution, before meeting at the nose. Then nothing happened. They sniffed each other and turned together back to the bushes where they bedded down near each other.
Seventh & Eighth Polar Bear Sighting
Leaving the two peaceful bears behind, we relocated in search of another bear to watch. When we first spotted the new bear, it appeared close to the road and was bedded down in a shrub bush.
As we approached and parked, I zoomed in to check out the bear. I distinctly remember the words ‘that’s an odd-shaped bear’ coming to mind. At first, I thought the bear was injured, as its back dipped strangely. That was until I spotted an ear.
Turns out, we had come across a large female polar bear with a cub! Judging by the size, Katrina and Val identified it as COY – which means cub of the year. This little one had been born in the den, just this summer. It hadn’t even spent a winter on the ice yet.
We watched them for some time, in total silence and awe while the cub poked its little head up to look at us. Mom was unfazed but the cub was having a first-time experience. New to this world, this polar bear viewing season would be its first.
After some time, Mom decided it was time to check us out. It was adorable to watch how the cub mimicked every single step and action of the mother. They were so harmoniously in sync that they moved as one. She came in for a close look at us, lingered for a bit, and then turned to move on.
As they left the proximity of the rovers, the cub kept looking over at all of us on the outer deck. At one point, it became so fixed on us that when Mom stopped, it ran straight into her backside! I couldn’t help but giggle as I captured the moment on my camera.
Ninth Polar Bear Sighting
On a total high from the mom and COY sighting, we moved on to start making our way back out of the CWMA. Along the way, we spotted another polar bear! This bear was bedded down in a shrub bush that was close to the road.
This offered us some nice photo opportunities during our short stop. The bear was completely relaxed, sleeping most of the time, and only lifted his head once. I took some time to just watch him, too, which left my mind to wander a bit.
I thought about the struggles that these bears are facing with climate change. As temperatures continue to rise, the ice season comes later and later each year. As such, it also melts faster in the Spring.
The amount of time that they can go to sea and hunt from the ice has drastically reduced. This means they are spending more time than ever on land. In an almost total fast. They need the ice to survive.
I looked around me and other than the ice on the tundra ponds, there was no snow. The waters of the Hudson Bay crashed against the shore. The following day would be November, and these bears had no ice yet in Northern Canada.
It was a humbling moment as I observed the energy-deprived bear resting to conserve what remained of its fat store from the previous winter. Being in Churchill is magical, but it’s hard to be there and not acknowledge the reality of the struggles that this species is facing.
As we bumped our way back to town, I stared out the window at the vastness of the tundra. The realm of the polar bear. I hope that future generations will have the opportunity that I was given to see such an amazing species up close in their natural environment.
Meet A Local – Florence
Tonight, before dinner we would meet Florence. She is the founder of Dene Routes and works with Nat Hab to share the story of the Sayisi Dene people with visitors. It’s a long, tragic tale, but it ends with hope.
The Sayisi Dene are a local Indigenous population that historically lived a nomadic lifestyle through north Canada following the Caribou migration. They hunted and traded with Hudson Bay Company outposts and lived a peaceful existence.
That was until they were accused of overhunting the caribou and underwent a forced relocation to the town of Churchill. It was later discovered that there was no threat to the caribou population, and they had been wrongfully accused.
This move set off many years of abuse and struggle for the Sayisi Dene. Half of the population died, and the survivors were severely oppressed by both the local population and the government. Eventually, they were able to fight for justice and relocate their people back to their ancestral lands. They are no longer nomadic but are making great strides to save their traditional ways.
It is a sad story, but one that ends with hope for the future. It’s important, that as visitors, we take the time to learn the whole story about the places that we visit. Even if it is uncomfortable.
Day 5 – Churchill and Return to Winnipeg
In what seemed like a flash, we woke up to our last day in Churchill. With our flight back to Winnipeg scheduled for the afternoon, we still had a full morning left in Churchill.
Despite our time in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area coming to an end yesterday, we’d still be learning more about polar bears and their presence in Churchill.
Polar Bears International
The first stop would be at the Churchill location of Polar Bears International. This science-based group is dedicated to the study of polar bears globally, the effects of climate change on their habitat, and the threats they face as a species.
Additionally, they do important work studying sea ice, too. We were given a tour of the base and learned about the research that is currently ongoing in Churchill. During our visit, we were able to watch the live cam from their dedicated science rover.
This is also live-streamed on their website while the polar bears are on land, so you can watch it from anywhere in the world. It’s also possible to follow their research from all other areas of the Arctic.
To learn more about and support Polar Bears International, you can check them out here.
Polar Bear Holding Facility
Have you ever heard of the Churchill Polar Bear Jail? Officially called the Polar Bear Holding Facility, this is where problem bears are kept until Hudson Bay freezes. The town of Churchill puts polar bear safety at the top of the priority list, so if a too-curious bear roams into town and refuses to be chased off, he gets to spend some time in jail.
During their visit, they are not fed or watered. Nothing about jail is meant to bring them comfort. They aren’t supposed to like being in jail. Most of the time, it is juvenile bears that end up in jail.
These bears are experiencing a fasting season on their own for the first time. They are tempted to town where they hear movement or catch a whiff of something from a restaurant.
These bears often come back if hazed out of town or released from jail before freeze-up happens. The jail, however, has become a huge success with many of the bears that are held never again returning to town.
Paired with the Polar Bear Alert Program, the jail has helped to significantly reduce the occurrences of human and polar bear conflict.
Cape Merry – Prince of Wales National Historic Site
Even with everything else to see and learn about in Churchill, it’s hard to ignore the colonial history of the area. So, I was thrilled when Katrina took our group to Cape Merry, which is part of the Prince of Wales National Historic Site.
The Cape Merry battery wall was built as a protective defense support at the mouth of the Churchill River. It sits directly across from the Prince of Wales Fort on the opposite bank. The purpose was to have dual fire capability to prevent anyone from entering the river and invading the fort by land.
Today, it’s a place of peace and in a way, abandonment. There is nothing there but the remains of what once protected the massive Hudson Bay Trading Company.
With an armed escort from the National Park Service, we were able to make the hike out to the battery ruins for a view across the Churchill River. In the distance, we could see the walls of the Prince of Wales Fort on the opposite bank.
The wind was whipping, and our animated armed escort shared stories of polar bear encounters on the shores of the river over the years as we made our way back to the parking lot.
The Churchill Inukshuk
Our last stop before heading to the airport was a visit to the massive Inukshuk that stands on the shores of Hudson Bay. This stone structure was built by the First Nation people.
It was traditionally used as a way for transiting populations to communicate that humans had been to a place or to indicate that they were on the right path.
I can only imagine moving across this landscape, not entirely sure of where I was headed, and then seeing one of these stone structures. It would be an overwhelming sense of joy and hope.
To stand in the presence of one, after such a beautiful couple of days in Churchill, left me thankful that I was able to follow my dreams of visiting this special place and that I was welcomed.
Fly back to Winnipeg
Arriving back at the Churchill Airport, I felt like it had been a month since we were last here. We had done so much in such a short time. My mind was racing with all the amazing sightings of polar bears and insightful stories that were shared with us.
The two and half hour charter flight went by in a blur and soon we were back at the Fort Garry Hotel in Winnipeg where it all started.
That night, we enjoyed a farewell dinner with our group at the hotel and Katrina presented a slideshow with highlights from the week. It was a beautiful end to a bucket list trip.
As we said goodbye to our newfound friends, we were thankful for everything this trip taught and gave us.
Day 6 – Departure Day
Leaving the hotel the next morning, we made our way back to the Winnipeg airport for the last time. Wow, what an adventure we had been on.
We’re not sure when we’ll be back, but we know one thing for sure, this won’t be the last time we find ourselves on an adventure to Churchill. Mark our words.
Our trip to see polar bears in Churchill was in partnership with Natural Habitat Adventures and Travel Manitoba. However, all opinions, stories, advice, and insane love for polar bears are 100% ours, as always.
